Hike #7: Mount Tamalpais, Phoenix Lake

Location: Marin (Lagunitas)

Distance: 5.3 miles

Entry fee: $0

This hike yielded some of the best flora and fauna to date.  And some of the most awesome views.  I am falling in love with Mt Tam.

Molly and I had originally planned to do the Cataract Falls hike in the same area.  We underestimated, however, the level of fun we would have the night before at Chrissy’s 29th birthday celebration (which started out at La Trappe…we should have known better).   So after a late start to the day and taking into account the puke probability, a 7 mile “moderate” hike did not sound appealing…or even really possible.  So we settled for the shorter, easier Phoenix Lake.

After driving through much of Marin (yes, we may have gotten lost on the way there), we pulled up to a line of cars waiting for a parking spot.  Wtf.  Lesson one: if you plan to do this hike, get there early.  We only ended up waiting about 5 minutes (during which we ate about half the birthday cupcakes we had baked for Chrissy the day before…we had them in the car with the good intention of delivering them on the way home.  Guess what didn’t happen.)  Anyway, we finally parked and got our hike on.

Chrissy's cupcakes

The fireroad at the early part of the hike has relatively heavy traffic…the area is very popular with mountain bikers, and the very beginning of the fireroad is full of families and dogs and people just enjoying a nice stroll around the lake.  Once you break off the fireroad onto Yolanda trail (which, surprise, we missed on the first flyby and had to backtrack to find), it empties out.

The first half of this hike is AWESOME.  To begin with, the day was beautiful.   The recent rain meant that all of the brooks and streams and waterfalls were flowing, and that the moss and mushrooms were all out and sporing (or whatever it is they do) making everything look soft and fuzzy and bright green and surreal.

We saw tons of birds (humming birds, robins, hawks, vultures–which freaked Molly out) and some really amazing views of the peak of Mt. Tam.  We also identified a few flowers and plants, including the invasive broom (duh duh duh) and bluedicks (I’m not going to say anything in case my parents read this site).

Once you complete that part of the loop, you hit the fireroad again and, after about 300 yards, branch off into what is essentially a small redwood forest.  While this part of the hike was less exciting (partially because we’ve spent a decent amount of time in redwood forests, partially because we were ready to get back to the car and eat more cupcakes) it was here that we saw some of our more exciting fauna, including: a huge banana slug (which, did you know, can weigh up to a quarter pound), and what we thought was a salamander but is actually a coast range newt.

(For all of you out there wondering what distinguishes a salamander from a newt…and I know you are….a newt is actually the common name for certain members of a family of relatively small salamanders.)

banana turd

Hike #7: hungover success!  I know I said this about the last Mt Tam hike, but I really think THIS one might be my favorite so far.

Lessons learned: all newts are salamanders, but not all salamanders are newts

Flora and Fauna: California Bay tree, broom, coast range newt, banana slug, bluedicks (which are actually purple)

Hike #4: Mountain Home-Muir Woods Loop, Mt. Tam State Park

Location: Marin, Mill Valley

Distance: 4.7 miles (if you don’t get lost…for us, ~7 miles.  you can see where this is going.)

Entry fee: $0

Three of us set out for this hike early to make it home in time for the NFL playoffs.  We got to the parking lot at the trailhead and I…promptly locked the keys in the car.

After finding out it would take the tow truck almost an hour to make it into the boonies and get my keys out, we decided to head across the aptly-named Panoramic Highway to the Mountain Home Inn for some coffee.  Everyone was really happy with me.

An hour later we finally started hiking.  The trail (which was built by the boyscouts in 1931) almost immediately leads into some pretty dense foliage.  It was raining on and off the whole time, but the area was so wooded there were times that we barely noticed.

On the trail there are groves of baby redwoods, a lot of weird looking moss, waterfalls and streams, colorful mushrooms…it really is an awesome hike to do in the winter.  But get ready to get muddy.  There are a lot of things that will tempt you to test your physical prowess.  Like:

Tall trees:

Sideways trees:

Fallen trees:

…and branches suspended over ravines:

After about 2 hours Paul was starting to get antsy about making it home in time for the second game (we already had to sacrifice the first one because of the later start).  According to the book we had only gone 3.3 miles…it kind of felt longer, but since no one had an pedometer we really had no idea.  (As Molly put it, it felt like we were in a mileage warp).  After following a short stretch of the Muir Woods trail (which was amazing) we hit the Lost Trail, which we knew was the last section of the hike and only about 1 mile from the finish line.  Finally, we had a sense of security about where we were and how much further we had to go.  Enter: poor trail markings.

We BOOKED IT up some serious inclines, ready to be back at the car and get some food.  About halfway up the Lost Trail we hit an ambiguous clearing.  We paused for a second, considered a few options, then without much discussion continued hiking aggressively down what we thought was the right trail.  After 15 minutes, when we hadn’t seen the landmark that we were supposed to hit 0.3 miles after the clearing, I began to suspect that this “mileage warp” may be intrinsically linked to our inability to read a map.  20 minutes after the ambiguous clearing we ran into another hiker, who confirmed that yes, we had in fact been walking as fast as we could downhill for 20 minutes in the wrong direction.  Turn around.  20 more minutes back uphill to the clearing.  From there another 10 minutes steep uphill to the actual end of the trail.  Goddammit.

Hike #4: quasi-success (to be honest, in my opinion, this was the best hike we’ve had so far…if we didn’t spend a good portion of it feeling and being lost, it would have been even better)

This is a fantastic hike if you don’t want to go too far outside the city (only about 20 min away) and are up for a little exercise but nothing obscenely strenuous.  Exceptionally stunning views, lots of interesting vegetation.

 

Lessons Learned: bring a pedometer if you are on a tight schedule

Flora and Fauna: we saw a redwood that had sprouted a new trunk about 90 feet off the ground (this happens when the tops of redwoods break off as they mature.  More info here.)  It was pretty cool.

Hike #2: Uvas Canyon County Park

Location: South Bay, Morgan Hill

Distance: 4 miles

Entry fee: $6

*Note: All pictures on this post were taken with a Droid, since I couldn’t find my camera this morning.

With a storm forecasted to roll in before lunch, Molly and I hit the road early hoping we could beat the rain (Uvas Canyon is right around 60 miles south of SF, so it was a little bit of a trek.)  To get there we drove though an awesome little private Swedish community called Sveadal. Secretly I was hoping for horse-drawn buggies and butter churns, but the reality was even better.  Moss-covered rocks, little cottages…I was afraid a gnome was going to jump out in front of my car.   So anyway, we finally got to the trailhead.  Armed with raincoats we set off onto…totally sunny trails.   We started out heading toward Alec Canyon trail.  The first part of the hike was on wider fire roads up to a 35 foot fall called Triple Falls, which was cool, and the views of the valley were awesome.

The falls that followed were even better, though, with a heavier water flow and dramatic drops.  And on the hike back we stumbled upon colonies of ladybugs hibernating, which was really interesting/gross (too many bugs in one place always make me a little squirmy.)

Hike #2: RAGING SUCCESS!  We did the whole thing in under 2 hours and got great views, sick waterfalls, and learned a little bit about nature.  Food afterwards was a local favorite, chicken pho from Sai’s Vietnamese in the Financial District.  Totally delicious.

Lessons learned: I want to live in a Swedish village, ladybugs hibernate

ladybugs on a stick

Flora and Fauna: Toyon (which also excited me bc in 6th grade our class took a trip to Toyon Bay on Catalina)

Hike #1: Donner Canyon, Mt Diablo

Location: East Bay, Walnut Creek

Distance: 5 miles

Entry fee: $0

For our first hike we decided to try a simple, short loop.  This area has a reputation of being hellishly hot and dry, so we figured the winter would be a good time to not only see a little more vegetation in the area, but also maybe catch one of the waterfalls which, as the placard at the trailhead put it, was the “ultimate goal” of our hike.

The beginning of the trail was relatively flat, following and eventually crossing over a babbling brook.  There are a variety of trails that branch off of each other, so following the right path proved to be trickier than anticipated.  About 20 minutes in, however, I had the directions torn from my hands by a fellow hiker (who will remain nameless) and was told I wasn’t “going to see nature if you have a piece of paper in front of your face, in the wilderness we just use the sun as a compass”.  So the paper was put away and from then on we relied on pure instinct to guide us.  45 minutes later we ended up in…guess where…the wrong place.

view from the top

After trekking up some very steep hills, the team as a whole concluded that we were a.) no longer anywhere near any water sources, b.) hungry, and c.) lost, so we decided to call it quits.  Hike #1: failure.  But we did get some nice views and hit up some awesome bar-b-que at Kinder’s Meats & Deli on the way home, so it wasn’t a total loss.

Lessons learned: bring a map. Especially if you want to see the waterfalls.

One of our many wrong turns

Flora and Fauna: Manzanita tree, Madrone tree (which I got excited about…like Madrone Ventures….cool)

The Wild Trees by Richard Preston

I picked up The Wild Trees because my husband and I were taking a road trip up the Northern California coast for a mini-honeymoon after our wedding.  I had never seen the redwoods and thought it might be nice to know something about the region before heading up there.

paul on avenue of the giants

The book turned out to be more a story of the tree-climbing subculture and the individuals who founded the movement, all kind of centered around the search for the biggest tree out there.  Interesting, not super gripping, but informative and parts of it are pretty amazing.  Makes me wish I wasn’t scared of heights or head injuries.

Rating: It’s short, worth the read

60 hikes in 6 months

After much hemming and hawing, my friend Molly and I have committed to attempting (ha) to hike 60 hikes within 60 miles of San Francisco within 6 months (from the 60 hikes within 60 miles series).   Thought process went something (or exactly) like this:
me:  so i am trying to start a blog
Molly:  ooh
really?
me:  just so i can learn how to set up a website
yes
but i need a blogging topic
Molly:  about what?
me:  exactly
Molly:  hmmm
me:  maybe i should pick up a new hobby and blog about that
Molly:  hmm, what hobby?
me:  i dont know
want to join me?
my friend has a blog about cooking with beer
Molly:  ooh
sure, i’ll hobby with you :)
me:  ok cool
now we just need to find a hobby
roller derby?
Molly:  that would be awesome
us trying to learn how to rollerskate
?
me:  we could start…rock climbing?
or
baking?
gardening?
Molly:  ooh, i love baking
and gardening
me:  ok
baking things from our garden?
on roller skates?
Molly:  while rock climbing?
me:  totally!
Molly:  we could try hula hooping
belly dancing
trapezing or something random
like that
me:  that could be cool
but exp
Molly:  yeah
that’s the only problem
me:  my friend says free diving
Molly:  where would we do that here?
me:  i have no idea
Molly:  i’m not free diving in the bay
me:  aw hell no
theres nothing ot see anyway
me:  start a band?
Molly:  what can you play?
i’m pretty terrible
i’ve only ever played a little piano
me:  i can play the flute
or i could
Molly:  learn how to play an instrument?
me:  i bet youd rock on the tambo
Molly:  i could do tambo
chrissy should be our lead singer
me:  def
actuallky
no
i want to sing too
Molly:  i’ll be backup
me:  we can be a trio!
Molly:  man, who would ever come see us
Molly:  we could do all 60 of these hikes
best hikes san francisco
me:  omg
that is a totally fantastic idea
Molly:  i’m sure we can get lots of people to join us for some of them
me:  there’s a pair of hiking shoes i wanted to get at sports basement
perfect reason
let’s do it!!
Molly:  woohoo!
Update: after looking at our work schedules, Molly and I  concluded that it is unlikely that we will complete all of these hikes before early June.  In an attempt to maintain our original goal, we will most likely be replacing a few of the original hikes with a few urban hikes.